After sandblasting the slide, frame, barrel, and trigger, I applied the base coat in a copper-tan mix to the slide and frame. The interior of the slide was done in E-Series Blackout. I prefer using the Elite Series for interiors because it’s thinner and flows better, curing at about 0.5–1 mil versus the H-Series, which usually finishes around 1–1.5 mils. (One mil is 1/1000 of an inch.)
Once the basecoat cured, the vinyl was delicately and methodically applied to the slide. The barbed-wire pattern was then sprayed in three layers before doing a final cure. Doing this final cure is crucial before distressing.
For the distressing process, Graphite Black was misted on lightly and flash-cured for about nine minutes. After it cooled, I used 0000 fine steel wool to rub back the black. This technique takes practice, but after a few attempts it becomes second nature. The goal is to leave the black settled in the grooves and crevices, which creates a worn, battle-tested look. Distressing is more challenging on smoother surfaces because the paint has less texture to grip, and the steel wool tends to wipe too much off. Another useful method is dialing the airbrush back and applying an extremely light mist—this looks great when combined with steel-wool rubbing.
The customer was extremely happy with the piece. It came out even better than I expected and is definitely a one-of-a-kind build.
To achieve the copper-tan color, I mixed three colors at 33% each: Northern Lights H-315, Copper H-347, and Multicam Dark Brown H-342. The barbed-wire effect was created in three layers. The base coat combined 50% Sniper Gray H-234 with 50% Midnight Bronze H-294. Next, I added a light airbrushed highlight using 50% Tactical Grey H-227 mixed with Titanium H-170. Lastly, I added shadowing with a blend of 40% Midnight Bronze H-294, 40% Sniper Gray H-234, and 20% Graphite Black.
The barbed-wire pattern was drawn in Adobe Illustrator. Instead of using the positive vinyl shapes, I used the negative pieces—normally weeded and thrown away. This technique allowed me to layer the pattern with a proper base, highlights, and shadows for a more dimensional, realistic look.
